Easter was fun a time in Tahiti. We all painted real boiled eggs from the chickens in our garden. Sunny and mum had been taught basket weaving and they made these really cool easter baskets out of recycled magazines. They turn out super strong. On Easter Sunday I hunted for chocolate eggs in the garden with my Mum, Dad and Sunny, and then I chased the chickens with my drone again.
My Grandparents from Thredbo came to visit for a few days. They are both over 80 so it’s a pretty good effort to be cruising around Tahiti. My Grandpa is still an amazing skier, so maybe I will be surfing Chopes at 83! It was great to hang out with them. We showed them the reefs and passes in my boat and we played games of Bananagram together at night.
School was done on the balcony and it went fine most of the time. We had school holidays when my Dad visited which meant we could check out some other islands also.
We visited two other islands. We flew over to Huahine and got some sick waves. It’s a heavy local spot. So you show respect, you don’t talk about the waves. No cameras allowed, so you don’t take photos. It’s the original home of Polynesian Royalty and it has ancient ruins all around the island. It’s like no other place for natural untouched tropical beauty.
We had been warned to be careful. When we arrived on the wharf with boards we spotted some big boys cruising the main street on the island in a big black Hummer with a Da Hui black shorts sticker from the famous Hawaiian Surf Gang on the back of their truck. They gave us a shakka which felt good. We met some cool locals on a random reef pass on the second day. They knew where we had surfed the day before even though there was only three of us in the water and it was the opposite side of the island at an offshore reef. Pretty cool how the bush telegraph works.
We also hung out and surfed with Keoni Yan. Keoni is half Tahitian but born in Hawaii and his mum is Japanese. He is 21 and is surfing on the Qualifying Series. Keoni stays with us when he comes to Manly. Keoni introduced me to Raimana Van Bastolaer who took me out to an outer bombie on his Red Bull jet ski, which was so sick. We did some step offs that day.
Keoni also took us swimming in the fresh water springs. They have eels in them but they don’t bite. It’s so cool on weekends. All the locals all go and sit in the springs, pump out some tunes extra loud on beat boxes and cook a BBQ.
On Sunday everyone goes to church dressed in white. Most people seem go to local churches and walk. The local community all seem really happy on Sundays. On the way home everyone is carrying baguettes and food. We had so many baguettes in Tahiti. They cost around 50 cents each and you can buy them everywhere. They are so good!
We also visited Moorea and surfed every side of the island of Tahiti. We met heaps of great people around the island. One rainy day we trekked in the jungle. Soaked in rain and mud. I think my sister and I complained a bit on the trek up the volcano. Matahai’s sister Cindy was our guide and she just laughed at us. It was pretty funny I suppose.
It’s off to Indo next. I was sad to leave Tahiti but so pumped to be going back to Indo for almost two months.